If you want to remove the eggs from the parents and hatch them it's pretty simple. Once the eggs are laid and fertilized you can remove them.

What you will need:
-tupperware bowl
-metheleyne blue
-5-10 gallon tank
-small heater
-air pump
-sponge filter

It's best to use tera cotta pots or saucers, because they make for easy removal of the eggs. A trick I use when removing the eggs is to use a tupperware bowl deep enough to totally submerse the eggs in. Get a 5-10 gallon tank to use to hatch the eggs. Small tanks are best because it's easier for the fry to find food when they are really small. You can graduate them to larger tank after a couple weeks. Fill the hatch tank with water from the tank they are in. Set up a sponge filter (small HOB filter can be used but make sure to use a sponge pre filter) and set heater. Add 1 teaspoon Methelyene blue per 10 gallons. I use about 2 drops per gallon. Now submerse the tupperware bowl in the water, transfer eggs into bowl underwater, now you can lift eggs out without them leaving the water. Transfer to the hatch tank. It's a good idea to put a small airstone near the eggs to generate current. Now wait for your eggs to hatch........ Once the eggs have hatched you will see little "wigglers". You do not start feeding the fry too much untill they are free swimming. If you look, they have little yolk sacs, and they get nutrition from those the first few days mainly. Everyone has different opinion on what is best to feed fry, but you can feed anything small enough for them to eat. Boiled egg yolk, cyclop-eeze, microworms, baby bites, chopped bloodworm, crushed pellet or flake food, are only a few. When the fry are free swimming, you want to use add a bag of carbon to the tank, this will remove the meth blue. Once the fry are free swimming feed 3-4 times a day, but not too much. I do small water changes every other day. Just enough to clean the bottom of the tank and keep the food off the glass. Once you are ready to hatch the next batch of eggs, move those fry into a grow out tank and your ready to start all over!!

Great info vittleking BTW, why do we need meth blue for the eggs?

helps prevent fungus. If you don't add it you will lose more eggs and wigglers to fungus. Thats why you leave it in untill they are free swimming.

Pinned, thanks for the great step by step info Joe. Any other members feel free to contribute how else they handle their eggs

no problem Ken. Anyone feel free to give there input as Ken said. This is just how I do it, and sure there are other things that can be learned also.

Very nice! I did the same thing with my most recent batch of babies too. But i would recommend crush flakes and pellets until the fries gets a little bigger. Everything else you recommended is great! Baby brine shrimp has been a favorite to feed fries also.

I use cycop-eeze strictly for first 2-3 weeks to pump them up, then switch to chrused pellet and flake. I've been usuing the Argent brand but Dan found some Tetra stuff thas is 12% lower in protien but a lot cheaper so might try that. I just really like the cyclops, its the perfect size for them to eat, and it's high in protien. If you compare nutritional info, it's actually very similiar to chingmix.

Yea i wished i would of used cycop-eeze besides baby brine shrimp for my batch when they first hatched. I looked on the back of the baby brine shrimp package and it was only 3% protien!GRR thanks for the adives vittle!

check out kensfood too, they have some stuff called golden pearls also. I need to get some stuff like that so if you want to go in on a big package of something let me know and we'll figure something out. But if it's cheaper we can get big one and split it. Shipping should be cheap.